Alpamayo is in many
people’s mind the most beautiful mountain in the world, and the goal
of
this expedition is to climb the peak’s elegant Ferrari Route on the
Southwest Face. After arriving in Lima we travel to Huaras at 9,500
ft. to repack expedition gear. We then drive north to the Santa Cruz
Valley where we begin our three day trek into base camp. With the bulk
of our gear on burros, we gradually acclimatize as we ascend the valley
beneath some of the famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca—the enormous
Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, and the very imposing pyramid of Kitarju.
We establish a
base camp in a small valley right beneath Kiaraju and 19,411-foot Alpamayo,
and then spend several days establishing an advanced base camp on the
col between the two peaks.
On our climb of the SW face we traverse a gentle glacier to the base
of the route, soon reaching
45-degree slopes, cross a bergschrund, and then ascend this sharply
fluted snow and ice face directly to the summit. We enjoy 1200 feet
of challenging ground, much of it at 60 degrees. The final pitches
are even steeper and provide an exciting finish to one of the world’s
finest ice face routes
Itinerary Length: 12+ days Location: Cordillera Blanca, Peru Team Size: 2 to 4 climbers with 1 or 2 guides Prerequisties: C.O.I. 3
day Alpine Skills Course or Strong Alpine Skills
this expedition is to climb the peak’s elegant Ferrari Route on the
Southwest Face. After arriving in Lima we travel to Huaras at 9,500
ft. to repack expedition gear. We then drive north to the Santa Cruz
Valley where we begin our three day trek into base camp. With the bulk
of our gear on burros, we gradually acclimatize as we ascend the valley
beneath some of the famous peaks of the Cordillera Blanca—the enormous
Santa Cruz, Artesonraju, and the very imposing pyramid of Kitarju.
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